Chicanná: Maya Architecture with Striking Masks

Chicanná is a small ancient Maya city whose buildings stand out for their masks, open jaws, and unusual false architecture. The site was home to the elite; the buildings in its center were arranged in small groups. Those interested in Maya history and architecture can take in the details of the façades alongside the layout of the plazas.

A City with a Long History

Human settlement at Chicanná began in the Late Preclassic period, which spans from 400 BCE to 250 CE, and continued until around 1100 CE. The settlement was a suburb of Becán. Its architecture and associated pottery point to the Río Bec tradition. Several buildings were constructed in more than one phase—so the site’s architectural development took place over several stages.

The plazas, too, tell us about the society of the ancient city. Plaza A was Chicanná’s main plaza. Public events of a civic and ceremonial nature took place there; at the same time, the plaza was reserved for gatherings of the privileged population. This historic use gives the plaza a different significance from the façades that catch the eye today with their forms.

Masks, Rooms, and False Architecture

Structures I and II feature different architectural elements. Structure I is an elongated building on the west side of the main plaza. Two rows of three rooms each and two rooms at the sides make up its layout. Two large towers with rounded corners flank the building; they were decorated with frontal masks. False stairways lead to false temples. The building thus brings together its room layout and the strongly shaped façades of its towers.

Structure II is in the eastern part of the plaza. The one-story building stands on a small platform; its central façade bears a large mask of Itzamná, regarded in Maya mythology as a creator god. The entrance is shaped like a mouth: teeth, nose, crossed eyes, forehead, and ear ornaments create the impression of a huge face with an open jaw. Cascades of Chaac masks made of stone mosaic run along the sides. They were covered with stucco and painted in several colors, predominantly a vivid red. Structure II has eight rooms; remnants of its roof comb remain.

Structure XX offers another point of comparison. The nearly square building has two levels: eleven rooms on the lower level and four on the upper. In the lower rooms, rosettes on benches frame human faces. The main façade has a fully zoomorphic portal on each level. Along the sides of the upper level, cascades of three-dimensional Chaac masks stand out; the structure ended in a roof comb. Partially preserved zoomorphic portals can be seen on the side and rear façades. An interior staircase branches off to the side and allows access to the upper rooms from outside the building.

Getting There and Finding Your Way Around

The archaeological zone is located at kilometer 141 of Federal Highway 186, which connects Escárcega in Campeche with Chetumal in Quintana Roo. Its central area lies 500 meters south of the highway. An unpaved road leads to the INAH entrance booth and is passable year-round. It is possible to arrive by public transportation; you will then need to walk to the entrance. Check road and transportation conditions before setting out.

The archaeological zone includes a visitor center, a parking lot, and restroom facilities. Check their current availability before your visit. This lets you plan your trip and time at the site according to the conditions, rather than assuming that particular facilities or arrangements will be available.

Choose the Right Base for Your Trip

If Chicanná’s architecture is the focus of your trip, its plazas, masks, and variety of building forms can shape your itinerary. When looking for a vacation rental, it helps to first consider whether you plan to spend most of your time at this archaeological site or combine Chicanná with other destinations. Choose your base to match your actual travel plans. In the Río Bec region, Chicanná, along with Becán and El Hormiguero, is counted among the archaeological city-states—a regional context for anyone interested not only in individual façades but also in the history of Maya cities.

Discover more destinations: Tenabo, Escárcega, Ciudad Del Carmen, Robles, Isla Aguada, Seybaplaya, Campeche, Champotón.

Go to the broader travel overview: Campeche.