Bila Tserkva between parkland and history

Bila Tserkva combines an expansive park landscape with a rich urban history. On the outskirts of the city, near the Ros River, lies the 400-hectare Oleksandriya Arboretum. Its forest-steppe landscape of oak woodland, clearings, meadows and waterways gives the place a distinctive natural character. The arboretum was established on the banks of the Ros in 1788. This raises a helpful question for planning your trip: should the park landscape be the main focus, or would you prefer to discover the city’s historic and cultural sites?

Parkland and garden design

The arboretum has preserved its defining landscape compositions. Dating from the late 18th and early 19th centuries, they make Oleksandriya a landmark of garden and landscape design. Nature and designed features come together here: in addition to oak woodland, meadows and waterways, a variety of architectural forms shape the park. These include a colonnade in the form of a Greek amphitheatre, the Chinese Bridge and the Turkish Cottage.

A striking example of the connection between architectural form and meaning is the feature known as “Ruiny.” It has stood since the 18th century and was designed from the outset as a ruined castle—a reminder of the passage of time. A waterfall emerges from its lower level. The Palieva Hill also bears traces of earlier history: remains of Cossack fortifications dating from the early 18th century have been preserved there.

A classical colonnade from the 18th century is named “Luna.” It is more than 38 metres long. At its two ends, people can even hear one another whisper—a distinctive acoustic feature that offers a different way of experiencing architecture than the historic design of “Ruiny.” Those interested in the park’s history will find not only an integrated landscape, but also individual structures, each with its own character.

Exhibitions and city history

The Bila Tserkva Local History Museum offers two distinct perspectives on the region’s past. One exhibition explores the everyday life of Ukraine’s early inhabitants, from the earliest times through the Middle Ages. Another focuses on the region’s history from the 14th to the 18th century, a period of Lithuanian-Polish rule. Together, these subjects span a long arc of history: from early ways of life to the political circumstances of the early modern period.

Zamkova Hora also reaches far back into the past. It is the present-day name for the settlement site of the chronicle city of Yuriev, founded in 1032 by Yaroslav the Wise, Prince of Kyiv. The Palas Theatre marked another chapter in history: in July 1920, William Shakespeare’s tragedy Macbeth was performed there in Ukrainian for the first time. The leading roles were played by L. Kurbas and L. Hakkebusch.

Residences and organ music

The Branicki Winter Palace is an architectural landmark in Bila Tserkva. It was built in 1796 as the Branickis’ winter residence. In summer, the counts lived in the summer palace in Oleksandriya Park, which no longer survives. The two residences thus served different seasonal purposes: the Winter Palace remains standing, while the summer palace no longer exists.

In the historic centre is the former Catholic Church of St John the Baptist, now used as an organ hall. The church’s first organ was installed in the winter of 1990. If attending an organ performance is part of your trip plans, check the current programme in advance. The location in the historic centre and the arboretum on the outskirts are two distinct areas of interest. When looking for a holiday apartment, you can therefore consider whether parkland and garden design or the city’s cultural venues should be more central to your stay.

More destinations

Discover more destinations: Tsybli, Pirnove, Zhukyn, Vyshhorod, Yahotyn, Kniazhychi, Ordzhonikidze, Protsiv.

Return to the main travel overview: Kyiv Oblast.