Hafnir: Fishing History, Early Settlement and Birdlife

Fishing village with traces of early settlement

Hafnir combines the history of a once densely populated fishing settlement with special opportunities to observe nature on Reykjanes. Until around 1900, extensive fishing from large boats played an important role here; the settlement developed around the significant coastal fishery. Those interested in the area’s past will also find evidence of very early settlement: Hafnir is home to the remains of the oldest settlement on the Reykjanes Peninsula, dating back to the 9th century.

Later traces of settlement also form part of the area’s history. South of Kalmanstjörn are the remains of a former settlement from past centuries. The site was a former farm and manor. There was once a church in Kalmanstjörn; remains of its cemetery are presumably still visible. Remains of an early dwelling site have also been studied in Hafnir. According to the municipality, they provide new insights into the settlement of Iceland.

Kirkjuvogur and the story of the Jamestown

Kirkjuvogur was a manor in Hafnir and an affiliated church site of the municipality of Grindavík. Kirkjuvogur is also the only black wooden church on the Reykjanes Peninsula. The area’s history extends beyond settlement, too: Hafnir is home to an anchor from the ghost ship Jamestown, which ran aground in 1881. These different traces invite visitors to see Hafnir not only as a former fishing village, but also as a place with a complex history.

North of Hafnaberg lies Junkaragerði, a settlement in Höfn. Together with the historic sites in Hafnir and Kalmanstjörn, it shows how closely the place names in this area are connected to earlier settlement. Those especially interested in the history of Reykjanes can make these traces a focus of their trip, alongside nature watching.

Birdlife at the harbour and in the surrounding area

For nature lovers, Hafnir offers another way to experience the area: sea geese can be observed near the harbour from late September to mid-April. There are also bird illustrations and information about local birds at the harbour. Great skuas and Arctic skuas nest in the lava rock and short grass around Hafnir.

Ósar is also important for birdlife and marine biology. This sea bay near Hafnir was formed by subsidence and can be reached from Route 44 after a short walk. If nature is a priority when planning your holiday, you can include this bay alongside the opportunities for birdwatching at the harbour. Hafnaberg offers another highlight: the cliffs are a geosite in the Reykjanes UNESCO Global Geopark. A marked trail leads there from the car park by the road; the car park is 4 km from Hafnir.

Which location suits your stay?

You can discover another special feature while driving along the road between the Reykjanes power plant and Hafnir: the planets of Reykjanes can be observed there. This experience adds another visible feature along this route to the area’s nature and history themes.

For more ideas of places to visit, see Sandgerði, Vogar, Gardur, Njardvik, Kálfatjörn, Grindavík and Reykjanesbær.

For the broader travel overview: Suðurnes.