Kathmandu Between Palace History and Garden Culture

Kathmandu offers different ways to experience its culture: palaces and courtyards at Kathmandu Durbar Square, market stalls in Asan, the Garden of Dreams and the festival traditions of Indra Jatra. Temple architecture, garden pavilions and historic sites of remembrance each provide a different focus. When planning your trip, it is therefore worth considering which side of the city you would most like to discover—architecture, markets, gardens or festival celebrations.

Indra Jatra: Processions, Drums and Oil Lamps

Indra Jatra begins with the raising of a pinewood pole at Basantapur Square, in front of the old Hanuman Dhoka Palace. During the festival, Kumari’s chariot is taken in a procession through Kathmandu’s main streets. Almost every evening, masked Lakhay dancers parade through the streets to the sound of loud drums. Around Kathmandu Durbar Square, the shrines and old palace buildings glow by the light of oil lamps each night.

The festival is also visible in public spaces at Indra Chowk: a large image of Akash Bhairab’s head is set up outdoors, directly opposite the temple. If you plan to include Indra Jatra in your trip, it is advisable to check the event dates in advance. This lets you plan around the festival days rather than assuming the scenes described are available at any time.

Palaces, Courtyards and Temples of the Old City

Kathmandu Durbar Square is in Basantapur, in the heart of the old city. Palaces, courtyards and temples from the Malla period define the square. Its two courtyards provide a point of reference: the outer courtyard includes Kasthamandap, Kumari Ghar and the Shiva-Parvati Temple; the inner courtyard includes Hanuman Dhoka and the main palace. Kumari, the multi-storey Taleju Temple, Kal Bhairav and the old Hanuman Dhoka Palace are also part of the square.

The three-storey Akash Bhairav Temple stands at Indra Chowk. Its tiled roofs, hanging balcony, gilded lattice windows and ornately designed entrance offer plenty of architectural detail to discover. The Tribhuvan Museum in Hanuman Dhoka Palace at Kathmandu Durbar Square commemorates King Tribhuvan (1906–1955), who helped free the country from the Rana regime. One gallery displays rare photographs and paintings of other Shah rulers, as well as photographs of a royal funeral.

Much of the palace complex at Kathmandu Durbar Square is considered accessible to tourists on all days of the week. It is advisable to check the current access conditions for your visit. Dharahara Tower is another notable historic building in Kathmandu: it is 50.5 metres tall and was built in 1832 by the prime minister at the time, Bhimsen Thapa.

Gardens and Markets

The Garden of Dreams is opposite the former royal palace, at the entrance to the Thamel tourist district. The garden had been neglected for decades; it preserves the garden heritage created by Kaiser Shumsher. Six freestanding pavilions are each dedicated to one of Nepal’s six seasons. Ponds, European-style verandas and houses for various bird species complete the grounds.

Asan offers a different view of Kathmandu. The market square lies about halfway along the city’s only diagonal main road, which connects Durbar Square with Durbar Marg. The shops sell, among other things, spices, fresh vegetables and kitchenware; individual shops may change. If you are travelling with children, the different themes can inspire shared discoveries: temple architecture, festival traditions, garden spaces and the goods in Asan each offer a tangible starting point for conversation.

Choose the Focus of Your Trip

When looking for a holiday rental in Kathmandu, you can start with the focus you have in mind: palace and temple history at Durbar Square, the festival traditions of Indra Jatra, the markets in Asan or the garden architecture of the Garden of Dreams. These interests represent different sides of the city and can help you decide on the cultural focus of your stay.

Discover More Destinations

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For the main travel overview: Bagmati.